Ferocious winds, volcanic ash, and a blue island ultra

The 65km began in the dark at 5.30am at the historical Porto Pim Gate in Horta, under an inflated, illuminated starting arch. Despite the cold, the atmosphere was phenomenal with booming music and cheering locals hyping up the runners before a motivational countdown set us on our journey. A glowing line of headlamps then snaked along black beach sands before we started the first of many climbs, this one up a small headland. We then ran back down and along the cobblestone roads of Horta and on through village streets and agricultural land along the east coast of Faial. The other races had staggered start times and locations along the same course, traversing the island from east to west so all runners had an opportunity to finish at Porto do Comprido and celebrate together.

As we ascended our first substantial climb at the 10km mark, visibility became restricted to a few metres. I frustratedly thought my glasses were fogging up but quickly realised we were all wrapped in dense fog blankets. Once daylight broke through the fog gradually lifted, and we savoured some rare sunshine while traversing runnable trails of rich red volcanic soil and lush green grass, watched intently by inquisitive cows. I have never seen so many happy cows! At Ribeirinha (~23 km into the run), the 42km runners joined us on the course, although I couldn’t see Bruce – yet. 

Because of its location in the Atlantic Ocean, weather in the Azores is highly unpredictable and changes rapidly. As we began our ascent up to the volcano’s rim (known as the Caldeira), a dense fog blanket began smothering the course again, unfortunately occluding potentially spectacular ocean views below. The fog then combined with ferocious winds, which continually battered us. Torrential rains in the days leading up to the event had turned the flowing trails around the Caldeira into a quagmire of thick mud intermingled with cow manure, at times knee-deep. With each squelching step, the mud attempted to suck the shoes off your feet. I began to question whether the course was simply too challenging for my scrawny legs – something I rarely do. But just as that thought crossed my mind, Bruce plodded determinedly through the mud towards me, which was enough motivation to kick my butt back into gear to keep moving forward.

Finally off the Caldeira and after savouring a short mud-free road section, we approached a flat pathway that meandered beside ~6km of narrow concrete waterways (levadas). Although flat, the path was again a sodden mud fest bordered by a barbed wire fence. 40km into the 65km event, one of the elite Spanish runners slipped in the mud, falling onto the concrete and breaking his arm. Amazingly, he finished the event and received his 2^nd place trophy with his arm in plaster. To avoid a similar mishap, I decided jumping into the levadas and running through the water rather than slogging through the never-ending mud was easier. Thank goodness for long legs and poles.

The aid stations along the course were a welcome relief from the intense weather and mud, with local volunteers extraordinarily supportive and encouraging. I also discovered my new favourite aid-station delicacy – Nutella-covered crackers dipped in salt. So good! After traversing through more mud, interspersed with a few trail sections and stairs, we finally reached a stunning black landscape, which was formed by ash, tuff and volcanic bombs in 1957 during the last volcanic eruption on the island, where that inflated arch finish line beaconed in the distance. Thankfully the volcanic ash was firm to run on, the winds had substantially subsided, and the rain had ceased – I finally crossed that elusive finish line in Porto do Comprido elated, with a couple of tears of pure joy trickling down my relieved face.

This year the weather created some of the most challenging conditions ever experienced relative to the previous nine editions of the event. The thick fog, howling winds and relentless mud forced the organisers to modify the 65km and 42km courses mid-race. As a result, runners were diverted away from the most exposed section of the course, where fierce winds threatened to blow them off the side of the volcano. Most of us were unaware of the course change but started to panic when we realised that the distances to the final two aid stations weren’t correct. We contemplated back-tracking to see where we had made a mistake, fearing we might be disqualified for cutting about 5km off the course. However, we knew we had diligently followed the easily identified course markers and had been warned in the pre-race briefing to follow those markers in preference to the GPS map. We were, therefore, immensely relieved to learn the officials had modified the course. To ensure those runners who completed the whole course were not disadvantaged, the officials added 2 hours to the time recorded for those who finished the modified course. Although 2 hours for 5km might seem excessive, it reflected the time others had taken to traverse the rugged terrain in challenging weather conditions. Taking 10:39:12 to complete the course (+2hr), I was simply thrilled to finish – the time was irrelevant!

The adverse conditions proved extremely challenging, with only 71 of 92 entrants completing the 65km (23% DNF) and only 103 of 135 entrants completing the 42km run (24% DNF). Only 52% of entrants in the 118km event finished. I finished 8^th out of the 10 women who completed the 65km (1^st Female 60 category). Bruce (8:24:36 + 2hr) came 75^th out of the 78 men who finished the 42km event (1^st Male 65). I was astonished at the lack of older women participating in the race, although I seemed to gain extra support and louder cheers because of my grey hair status. 

Despite the challenging conditions, it was an exhilarating event. The adverse weather added to the adventure. The warmth of the local people cheering everyone on along the way and pampering us at the aid stations was enough to combat the cold. Mario and his team went above and beyond what I have ever experienced at a trail event, providing a free hearty meal following the presentation ceremony, offering free race photos of the highest quality, and ensuring everyone had an experience to savour for life.

Following the race, Bruce and I travelled to three other islands (Pico, Sao Jorge and Sao Miguel). In 2020 Patricia Raposo and her team from an Azorean travel agency, Açoreana, immaculately planned a whirlwind list of activities for us to experience – including climbing volcanic mountains, hiking through paradise with passionate tour guides who ensured we had perfect experiences, whale-watching in a zodiac full of excited and expressive Italians, visiting a coffee plantation and cheese factory (and sampling the goods), wandering from restaurant to restaurant on a food and wine tour, cycling around pristine lakes, soaking in thermal spas including a natural thermal spa that poured into the ocean, and unexpectedly being immersed in the largest religious festival in Europe with its 6-hour procession along streets adorned with flower(just as examples). Incredibly, the travel agent honoured every booking we had paid for three years earlier. We can’t thank them enough for their patience and persistence in constantly modifying our travel plans!

The Azores is one of the most unique and spectacular places we have had the privilege of visiting anywhere in the world. The people we met were always extremely amicable and helpful, especially when they learned we had travelled from Australia. So, if you’re looking for an adventure of a lifetime, make sure you put the Azores and the Ultra Blue Island events on your bucket list. You won’t regret it!